Dining
Insider Guide Chef Steven Molnar transports us from Mexico to Toronto
In keeping with the IBA conference’s transition from Mexico City to Toronto, we invited Steven Molnar, the chef – owner of Toronto’s beloved Michelin-Starred Mexican Restaurant, Quetzal , for an exclusive interview. As a Hungarian-Japanese chef and entrepreneur running a world-class Mexican restaurant in Canada, Molnar epitomizes the spirit of Toronto, where people are curious, respectful and proud to share in the many cultures that make up our city.
What makes Quetzal a remarkable dining destination? It’s a uniquely wood-fire restaurant with an open kitchen, so you can see all the fires from wherever you’re sitting in the restaurant. We have eight seats directly in front of the kitchen, where you're totally immersed. You get to interact with the cooks and me, and ask a lot of questions. It's really fun. We have a large à la carte menu, but we can also offer a tasting menu (with a lot of surprise courses) that is different for every single person How about drinks? We offer beverage pairings with our tasting menus. We’ll start people off with a cocktail. (Quetzal won the Michelin award last year for the best cocktail program in Toronto.) Then we pour really interesting things, not only wine, but also Japanese sake, French cider or sometimes even port – right in the middle of the tasting menu. It’s a really fun flow that goes well with the food. How did you develop your love and knowledge of Mexican cuisine? French cuisine was the foundation of my career. Then I started learning more about Spanish cuisine working at Quetzal’s sister restaurants Bar Raval and Bar Isabel. When
the opportunity [to run Quetzal] arose, I spent a good amount of time in Oaxaca, staged in restaurants and talked to people at markets: learning about mole and masa and tortillas and the foundational elements to Mexican food. It has just been constant researching and travelling to Mexico, to source interesting and unique ingredients that hadn’t been showcased in Canada. What interesting Mexican ingredients might show up on menus at your Toronto restaurant? We bring in dried avocado leaves – they are so floral, so fragrant. We infuse them in ice cream, sauces and marinades. We have a strong masa program – masa is the corn dough in empanadas and tortillas. And we choose from hundreds of varieties of chillies at Mexican markets, each with a different flavour profile. Where else do you love to dine in Toronto? One of my staples is Imanishi, a little Japanese snack bar on Dundas West. It has a fun atmosphere, and it reminds me of the comforting dishes my mom used to make when I was a child – just homey, snacky food, but really well done.
Another place, that is new, is called Mhel. It's run by a Korean couple; they do shared small plates. The menu changes every single day – you never know what you're going to get when you go there, but you do know everything’s going to be amazing. I often go to Martine’s Wine Bar, owned by my business partner, Chef Grant van Gameren. It’s a great little room in Little Italy. Martine’s predominantly uses vegetables from Grant’s farm in Prince Edward County. What visitor spots do you recommend, to see Toronto like a local? Kensington Market is such a great neighborhood in Toronto. It's always in flux in there, and you never know what you’re going to find. You’ve got many cafes, vintage stores, a lot of interesting Latin supermarkets as well. Also, I think visiting the Toronto Islands is underrated – walking around the island, going to the beach, seeing the skyline from that perspective. It’s pretty magical, if you're coming back on that night boat.
12
13
Powered by FlippingBook